The Heart of Scotland in Spain

The Black Douglas

In the small Andalucian village of Teba, visit the Castle of the Stars ( El Castillo de Estrella), where King Robert the Bruce of Scotland’s commander-in-chief at the Battle of Bannockburn was slain, whilst carrying his sovereign’s heart to the Holy Land, for burial in the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

Visit the Castle of the Stars and the monument to Black Douglas

This trip is a must, for those with a drop of Scottish blood in their veins. Your guide will take you through the life, and often violent times, of the young James Douglas. From the day he swore allegiance to Robert the Bruce, stood shoulder to shoulder with him at the decisive Battle of Bannockburn, this most loyal and constant companion became an incredibly talented military commander and the scourge of his enemies, who bestowed on him the title of Black Douglas.
You will hear how, before he died in 1329A.D., King Robert the Bruce made it his last request that Douglas, as his oldest and most trusted companion-in-arms, should cut out his heart, embalm it in a silver casket, carry it to the Holy Land, and deposit it in the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
Douglas’s journey brought him to Seville, and across Andalucia to TEBA, where he joined forces with King Alfonso XI of Spain, who, in 1330 A.D., was attempting to remove the Moorish garrison from the Castle of the Stars. The Christian army lay siege to the Castle, but were engaged by a Moorish army, led by Osmyn, a notable soldier, who had come to relieve the Castle. In the battle that ensued, Black Douglas and almost all of the men who fought by his side were slain. The remaining Scots searched the battlefield and retrieved the body of Douglas with the silver casket containing his King’s heart beneath him.
The trip will include a visit to the ruins of this substantial Castle, and a visit the monument erected to Douglas by the people of the village, forever grateful to this great Scottish warrior for his contribution in their struggle against the Moors.
This little known, but extremely important episode in Scottish history, took place in TEBA, just over an hour from the coast.

Teba as seen from the Castle of the Stars

Next stop is El Chorro situated at the mouth of Desfiladero de los Gaitanes (The Gorge of the Bagpiper). Made famous as the final resting place of Frank Sinatra in the film “Von Ryan’s Express”, this magnificent natural structure provides you with some of the best photographic opportunities in the Malaga region. The Rio Guadalhorce flows through this breathtaking gorge, which is considered by many to be of immense ecological importance. Between 1901 and 1905 a passageway know as El Caminito del Rey, was built onto the cliff face, and, although not now in use, can be clearly seen from El Chorro. This area is an El Dorado for rock climbers, where enthusiasts from all over the world arrive to test their skills.

As we pass through the Ardales natural park, our guide will point out the ruins of the ancient 9th century town of Bobastro, from where the Muladi rebel, Omar Ben Hafsun once controlled an area the size of the Malaga region. Just beyond are the beautiful Malaga Lakes. Noted for their deep turquoise colour, they provide a further excuse to get that camera out!

We then head for Teba, where after a leisurely tour of the Castle and town, a typical Spanish lunch is provided in the Rancho El Mirador, which offers stunning views up to the Castle..
At the end of the day you will have experienced a unique piece of Scottish history here in Spain, and in doing so will have enjoyed visiting the REAL Spain.

Hearts & Crosses

Before he died in 1329, King Robert made it his last request that Sir James, as his oldest and most esteemed companion in arms, should carry his heart to the holy land, and deposit it in the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. His heart was placed in a silver and enameled casket which Douglas placed around his neck. Early in 1330, James Douglas set sail from Scotland with six other knights and twenty six squires and gentlemen.

They stopped over first in Sluys in Flanders, where more men joined them. There they received news of a crusade by Alfonso XI of Castile against the Muslims of the kingdom of Granada. Accordingly, they sailed to Seville, where they were received by Alfonso with great distinction.

Douglas and his company, having joined themselves to Alfonso's army, came in view of the Saracens near to Teba, a castle on the frontiers of Andalucia. The Moorish king had ordered a body of three thousand cavalry to make a feigned attack on the Spaniards, while, with the great body of his army, he made a circuitous route, unexpectedly, to fall upon the rear of Alfonso's camp. Alfonso, however, having received intelligence, kept the main force of his army in the rear, while he resisted the assault made on the front division of his army.

While the battle was brought to a successful conclusion in one quarter of the field, Douglas and his companions, who fought in the van, proved themselves no less fortunate. The Moors, not long able to withstand the furious encounter of their assailants, fled. Douglas, unacquainted with their mode of warfare, followed them until, finding himself almost deserted by his followers, he turned his horse, with the intention of rejoining the main body. Just then, however, he observed a knight of his own company surrounded by a body of Moors who had suddenly rallied. With the few knights who attended him, Douglas turned hastily to attempt rescue. He soon found himself hard pressed by the numbers who thronged upon him. Taking from his neck the silver casket which contained the heart of Bruce, he threw it before him among the enemy, saying, "Now pass thou onward before us, as thou wert wont, and I will follow thee or die." Douglas, and almost all of the men who fought by his side, were here slain. His body and the casket containing the embalmed heart of Bruce were found together upon the field. They were conveyed back to Scotland by his surviving companions. The remains of Douglas were deposited in the family vault at St Bride’s chapel, and the heart of Bruce solemnly interred by Moray, the regent, under the high altar of Melrose Abbey.

In 1356 the 'bloody heart' was incorporated in the arms of Sir James' nephew, William, 1st Earl of Douglas. It subsequently appeared, sometimes with a royal crown, in every branch of the Douglas family

The Black Douglas Teba Tours

Your host Tom, an exiled Scot himself will be giving a fully guided tour leaving from all locations on the Costa del Sol to Teba, via the locations indicated above. You will be informed about the background leading up to the events at Teba with references being made to Bruce, Wallace, Bannockburn and the many escapades of the great Sir James, culminating, of course, with the dramatic events at Teba. Additional references will be made about King Alfonso XI and the Sultan Osmyn, himself a notable Moorish warrior. You will visit the Castillo de Estrella, the site at the Rio Turon where Osmyn's army amassed, the site close to the Rio Teba where the battle is thought to have taken place and the marble plaque dedicated to Douglas. This will be a trip, steeped in 14th century Scottish history, but related in a 21st century Spanish backdrop. Included in the cost will be a full 3-course Spanish meal with wine, at a local venta. 

If further information is required, Tom can be contacted here,

or by phoning 0034 952 46 33 38 or 0034 66 407 1237